Salvador Part 2 – The Historical Centre

9th March, 2023

Well, I am sorry if this is out of sequence and you have already read the post on Recife, but something odd happened in the cafe in Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde where I was trying to upload the photos on an increasingly weaker Wi-Fi and where the original post for this disappeared into thin air. No idea why or how, but there we are. And of course, I can’t remember what I wrote about the Upper Town, so I will have to start again.

So, I left Val at the ship as she had had enough touring for the day and bumped into Donald and Ray, fellow guests on the ship and all 3 of us set off for the funicular railway or Plano Inclinado to ascend to the Upper Town where the UNESCO World heritage site is. You can also opt to take the Elevador Lacerda, 4 rather fine Art Deco lifts. Amazingly the Jesuits first installed a rope-and-pulley lift in 1610.

The actual area where the main restored historic buildings are is called Pelourinho, meaning ‘pillory’ in Portuguese and was where those who were up for punishment, be they deemed to be criminals or slaves were exhibited and sometimes flogged. So a somewhat grim past.

The entrance to the Plano Inclinado, Salvador.
It looked rather ancient, but still worked well – and cost about 2.5p to use!

We arrived at the top and I made my way to what appeared to be the main square,, where I found the cathedral.

The Cathedral is on the left in this photo.
Interior of the Cathedral.
The side chapels were also very impressive.
As was the ceiling!

The main square has a lot of fine buildings (including a monastery) all of which have been restored to a high quality.

Some of the restored buildings in the main square of the historic centre of Salvador.
Looking down from the main square…
…… and back up the other way towards the cathedral.

I wandered about a bit, enjoying the very different atmosphere with a Capoeira band and performers playing and general sense of ease and relaxation. The whole area is full of cultural venues such as dance studios and artists shops. Some of the side streets had also been restored and proved to be alarmingly photogenic – as were some of the ladies who had dressed up in historic costumes and would happily have you pose with them for a small donation

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One of the side streets, Salvador.
Happy to pose with you…. for a price.
More street scene…

I found myself eventually in front of the facade of the St Francis Church and Convent, which is a very fancy one as you can see from the photo below. I paid my small fee and entered and it was another splendid example of 18th Century Baroque. The complex was completed in 1723.

The outside of the Convent and Church of St Francis, Salvador.
This is the first room you enter before the church itself and seems to be a sort of shrine to saints and other holy predecessors.
The interior of the Church of St Francis.
There were several other rooms you could visit including this one. It did make me wonder what St Francis himself would have made of it all….

It was then a case of more wandering about. I have to tell you that, once again, this selection is just the tip of the iceberg and more photos are available to anyone who so wishes…

One of the Capoeira musicians, presumably trying to drum up business!
Another street scene. We were warned not to go down some that were not restored, although there were a lot of police on duty.
Traditional dress meets modern device!
Lovely colours and shades…
This is probably the most iconic view in the whole site.
Happy in her work…

I joined up with Donald and Ray again and, after a small (Ok, a large) beer, we headed towards one of the views from the Upper City..

The broken cross…
What used to be the Imperial Palace in the days when Brazil broke away from Portugal, but still had a member of the Portuguese royal family as its head of state. A bit of background… when Napoleon invaded Portugal in 1807, the prince regent and the royal court relocated to Brazil and even stayed on after Waterloo, declaring a United Kingdom of Brazil and Portugal. In 1821, now Dom Joao VI, he returned to Portugal leaving his son Pedro in Brazil as regent. Pedro resisted an attempt to return Brazil to colonial status and in 1822 declared himself Emperor Dom Pedro I and Brazil had its independence. The imperial period lasted until 1889.

Definitely one of the highlights of the voyage and highly recommended if you happen to be in the area.

One thought on “Salvador Part 2 – The Historical Centre

  1. Looks really attractive! Love all the restored buildings. Presumably St Francis was built by the Jesuits? It looks their style! Like a number of the places you have been too, it looks very uncrowded with few cars – Or is that because you are there on a Sunday – I’ve lost track! You are right about the contrasts!

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