Across the Equator to Cape Verde

12th to 16th March, 2023

We crossed the Equator on 13th March and were due to have King Neptune’s ceremony once again, but – it was raining! So it was postponed until the next day and with the usual flamboyant accusations of dreadful crimes, various of the crew were hauled before King and Queen Neptune, found guilty, kissed the fish and were hurled into the deep (in this case, the swimming pool!).

The Captain being found guilty of his crimes…
The Executive Chef did not go quietly!

As ever, the sea days are enjoyable on a different level to the port days and Val and I have found them a lot of fun. The whole atmosphere of the ship is one of (mostly) camaraderie and there is a lot of stopping and chatting with fellow guests and crew that one has got to know over the 70 odd days of the trip. We have also been spoiled by some better than usual evening entertainment from our visiting artistes, including a very good violinist, a traditional Rock and Roll band of one family playing all the favourites and a very funny and skilful ventriloquist. So never a dull moment.

Two last destinations before we arrive back in Southampton. The first was the island of Sao Vicente, one of the 10 islands of the Cape Verde Islands. Cape Verde achieved independence from Portugal in 1975 and lies off the coast of Africa, just north of Senegal, opposite Mauritania. The Portuguese were the first settlers in the city of Mindelo in the year 1795 (surprisingly late!). The population of the city is 70,000.

We had a bit of time before our tour, so Val and I ventured into the city of Mindelo to have a look around and to find some Wi-Fi. As you will have gathered from the delayed post on Salvador Part 2, the latter was only partially successful, but we enjoyed a walk around part of the city.

Coming into port on Sao Vicente, Cape Verde
The port of Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde
Most of the buildings seemed in good repair and there was a sense of some prosperity about the place, though there were quite a number of young men begging for money. We were told there is a drugs problem on the island, which might explain it.
Obviously a lot of Portuguese influence in the architecture though the British also had some effect when they set up coaling stations in the 19th century and became very prominent in trade.
Of course, we had to go to the market!
The outside of the market.
The rather splendid (and very pink) Palacio do Povo or People’s Palace, formerly the Palacio do Governo. Built in 1874 it usually houses the Carnival exhibition. They were expecting the president and a visiting dignitary so the red carpet and honour guard were in evidence.
Another view of the streets of Mindelo. Well maintained on the whole.
It was hot and the water looked very inviting! It was, we were told, a bit on the refreshing side.

We got back to the ship, had a quick bite to eat and then it was off on the Mindelo Island Discovery (technically, it should have been the Sao Vicente Island Discovery). We had an excellent guide, Sonia, who was full of information about Cape Verde and the many differences between the islands that make up the nation. She stressed how fiercely independent they are and how they disliked any tags of being Portuguese, Brazilian or African.

We started in Mindelo and saw a few sights that we had not covered in the morning, which was good.

This building was built by the British in the 19th century as their clubhouse in an area of the city that they used, separate from the rest of the inhabitants. It is now a cultural centre, I believe. The building behind is not the local head office for Dulux Paints!!
Rather fun!
And a rather elegant fountain…..
We were taken down to the waterfront where a small fish market was and a statue to the Portuguese discoverer of Sao Vicente (sorry, his name escapes me).
A replica of the Belem Tower in Lisbon, just to remind the Portuguese of home (and, according to Sonia, our guide) the British that they were only guests!)

It was then out of town and into the countryside to Monte Verde, a bit of a misnomer right now as it was anything but green. However, when the rain does come (around August), it does turn green apparently.

Val looking great on Monte Verde!
A panorama of the inland part of Sao Vicente.
A bit hazy, but looking down on Mindelo and if you look carefully, you can see our ship along with 2 other cruise ships.

We were then taken to the seaside and there was time for Val to have a paddle before we were transported to a sort of restaurant for some refreshments, music and dancing. Carnival is big here as well! I would add that the refreshments mainly consisted of rum! Indeed, a popular local drink is Grogue, a descendant of the Royal Navy’s ‘grog’ – though decidedly stronger. I will confess to enjoying it enormously!!

Val enjoying her paddle.
And Val posing with two local ladies who were displaying the carnival outfits.
And Val, again, getting into the swing of the local rhythms.
The beaches looked nice with dramatic backdrops.
The scenery was spectacular if decidedly arid. The islands suffer from a lot of wind most of the year as evidenced by the almost horizontal trees.

It was then back into the city, a quick look around some shops and then back to the ship.

Val making friends!!

An interesting visit. It is difficult to assess a whole country from a one day visit, obviously, but it did give us an insight into some of it and it does look well worth further investigations, especially of some of the other islands that make up Cape Verde.

Next and final stop, Tenerife!

4 thoughts on “Across the Equator to Cape Verde

  1. Mindelo looks nice, but I agree, overall the island looks anything but verde!!! Very impressed you got up and danced Val – looks like the rest of the passengers were far too inhibited!

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  2. I recognised all your Sao Vicente photos except the Carnival photos and the mother and daughter! We spent two weeks in Mindelo over this last Christmas 2022 and New Year. We rented a great apartment with a view to the sea and the mountains and had a wonderful time. We will definitely visit again. We had 27 degrees every day, warm enough for short sleeves in the evenings and the sea was warm enough to swim. The owner of our apartment recommended that we also visit nearby Sao Antao island which we probably will do next time.
    A few years ago, we went to Sal island – full of tourists – we would not go there again. Boa Vista island apparently is also very touristy. We loved that on Sao Vicente, we met hardly any tourists, just ordinary Cape Verdeans getting on with their lives.

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